We have a Scan Gauge too, it's useful but didn't read all of the codes I wanted to see. Don, will SGII read the glow plug and low boost codes that are most common?

Unfortunately it’s not always as simple as taking it to an auto parts store for a 2006 T1N Sprinter (which your 2007 Navion is built on.) We have a 2006 based on a 2005 Sprinter chassis, same thing. T

Thanks Dunc. It makes much more sense if we are talking about placing the phone right next to the cabin antenna. WA6NMF since 1975

+1 on Trackers (aka Suzuki Sidekick) I have a 1990 and have towed it behind lots of different things, and it's about 600 pounds lighter than a 2004 (which otherwise is a nicer vehicle)

I did not mean to imply that a booster is useless; only that it can do no better in most cases than an optimally installed and oriented antenna. Since we generally don't have that option (because we c

I think the summary of previous posts (including mine) describes it pretty clearly, which is to say that there isn't consistent advice. Everyone's experience will be different because each person is u

@Don, I agree with your recommendations and assessment of the RV industry, but in this group we're trying to push the tech forward at least for our own casitas rodantes, right? There is an exact answe

Our experience is that there's no such thing as "touch up the seals." If a seal or caulking has failed, you have to remove the old caulk, clean out and abrade where it didn't adhere, and re-caulk.

I know some guys like to toss tech units around but in my experience it's more helpful to translate back to something people can relate to, like watt-hours. We're not storing charge per se so Coulombs

@Don, some more information for you on shunts and Hall-effect current sensors. A shunt is just a calibrated resistor, providing a voltage for the battery monitor to measure that corresponds to the cur

Randy, this isn't on topic with the battery monitor install so I would suggest that you re-post once you have some more information from the MB dealer (so that people can find it in the future.) But,

Unfortunately there isn't enough room to carry a large enough set of good lead-acid batteries (and I won't repeat previous discussions about what kind they should be.) This is unlike the previous RV,

No, I want both, so I can still start the truck (200-250 amps) from the house battery if I need to. I like redundancy. Can't do that with ordinary lithium ( GC2s in front, lithium in back. At the mome

Don (old b4) sums up the issue in another thread (excerpted): I would be looking myself for some cells and reasonable cost/performance BMS as well. The maximum drain at any one time on all of them wou

Rather than hijack Dick's thread further. I'll start a new one on DIY lithium power systems for our RVs. Between the people on this thread there is a bit of experience and I think we might be able to

I think of a battery as a kind of plant that needs to be taken care of, or else it will die, only in this case there's also a slim chance that it will be a little more catastrophic. Likewise if a lead

The generic VHB used many places is 4941 as stated. In another thread, 3M recommended 5926 for better adhesion to fiberglass but the generic worked fine for solar panels for me. This is also about the

Sorry, that is not applicable, was thinking of a friend who needed to get in to his Roadtrek turn signals.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1ZSMQBnzlE

Jerry, you will need to get inside that box and find all the circuits fed from the battery disconnect relay. One large terminal of that relay goes over to the other contactor, the other one feeds the