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Overheated?
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Jppape@...
On the side of the road in south Georgia after eight hours coming up from Key Largo. Vehicle just died and coasted into the shoulder. Coolant temperature is at 252° but no warning lights. Engine light came on when the engine died. Any thoughts?
jeremy Pape 16v GA
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waydigs
Wow, that is a long trip to do in 8 hours. I also have a '16; so please keep the group advised as to what you find. You Should have got a lot of lights flashing way before it died. Wayne '16 V
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Jppape@...
Now I’m thinking it might be the chassis battery. We have the generator running and the house batteries are charging at 13.9 V but the chassis battery is only showing 12.1 V. When trying to crank the volts drop to 6v. Waiting on a wrecker to tow us to a RV park so we can plug-in for the night.
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Don’t want sound arrogant, but any chance you out of fuel? You fuel gauge may not be reading correctly and indicating you still have fuel. I ran out of fuel in the keys and the gauge was indicating I still had half a tank. It’s suddenly died like yours. Was towed to the Mercedes dealer. Mechanic couldn’t figure out what was wrong and decided to add some fuel. It started right up. Learned by experience
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David
On Jun 13, 2020, at 2:40 PM, waydigs <diggsmail44@...> wrote:
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Jppape@...
We’ve been running the generator for the last 2 1/2 hours so we definitely have fuel, showing 3/8 of a tank on the gauge. Has anyone replaced the chassis battery? Looks like an expensive Mercedes Benz part.
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Hans Telm
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On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 3:26 PM, Jppape@... wrote:
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Propane or diesel generator?
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David
On Jun 13, 2020, at 3:35 PM, Hans Telm via groups.io <atze1994@...> wrote:
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Jppape@...
Diesel generator.
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Yes remember that the diesel used by the generator sucking out of the main fuel tank is not reflected on your fuel gauge. It’s a quirk of the Mercedes fuel set up.
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But since the generator pick up is a few inches off the bottom of the tank and it still running, you should have some fuel. This is the scenario that happened to us When we ran out. We used our generator a lot, but fuel use was not reflected in the Fuel gauge. So When our vehicle died, the fuel gauge indicated we still had a half a tank but in reality we were out due to the heavy use of the generator while dry camping in the keys. This scenario has happened to several View owners that I know of. Good luck David
On Jun 13, 2020, at 3:49 PM, Jppape@... wrote:
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There is a service advisory on the fuel gauge reflecting generator usage. I'm trying to track down the document Justin Copley posted on FB, but having little luck. The code is J51 and it controls whether the gauge reflects calculated usage or usage from the float. It took me a while to convince the Mercedes Santa Fe service advisor that this was changeable post-build, but I was eventually successful and mine now reads from the float.
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Thanks, Bob 17NJ Santa Fe, NM
On 6/13/20 5:03 PM, David Kruth wrote:
Yes remember that the diesel used by the generator sucking out of the main fuel tank is not reflected on your fuel gauge. It’s a quirk of the Mercedes fuel set up. --
17NJ Santa Fe, NM
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David J
Alternator and/or serpentine belt failure?
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252 degrees is definitely hotter than it should be -- I'm not sure how hot it would take to actually cause engine damage but I imagine something is not right if you are reaching that high of coolant temps. Your temps should likely spend most of their time at about 195 - 205 F. Potentially a bit higher in very hot weather in traffic or pulling a steep grade, but not substantially higher and now for a prolonged period.
Bryan 07H
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Mohammed Adeel
U should have battery boost switch that routes power from house battery in dash below the radio.
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Mohammed adeel
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waydigs
Running the generator will not charge the chassis (starting) batteries (or I am sadly misinformed) Wayne'16 V
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Donald Borden
If you have a Trickle Start it should. Don, 2014 NV, SS, CO & Hsn.,TX
On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 8:11 PM waydigs <diggsmail44@...> wrote:
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Or hold down the aux start switch down while the generator is running... matchbook under it to keep engaged? Trikl-start best option IMO.
-- Paul and Christine 06 View 23H in NW FL
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Paul Rouis
Jeremy, After confirming it is a chassis 12V issue and not a fuel issue determine if it is just the battery and not the alternator. If it started fine and was running for that many hours on the road it should have been fully charged from the alternator. I had my voltage regulator go and did have some warning lights show up while driving. Sounds like you didn't and did mot go into LHM.
In my case I was able to get to a spot and start the generator, I then plugged in my Noco charger into a 110 outlet and plugged it into the dash 12V. This supplied enough power to the ecm to keep the engine running until I could go the 100 mi to get home and diagnose and fix. That Noco was the best $50 I spent on an accessory and it stays in the rig. Saved me a tow and getting stranded. Paul 07VJNY
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Jppape@...
Replaced the battery this morning with an H8 series 49 that I found at Walmart. Still no joy. Still tries to turn over like it’s a dead battery, 1/4 rotation or so. Also tried with battery boost. I’m curious as I’m looking at my one place battery monitor, when I hit the battery boost I would assume that the chassis battery would rise up to the house battery level. We are plugged in and house batteries are showing 13.4 V.The most I have seen on the chassis battery is 12.6 with the battery boost button depressed.
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Leonard R Casella
You have more serious issues than battery at this point. First, I suspect your Boost Solenoid is shot, that's why depressing the boost button does nothing. Second, a brand new battery indicating 12.6 volts (that's nearly full charge) should spin that engine over like a top. Sounds like serious engine issue. I would't mess with it, need a tow. Did you look at your belts? Sounds like maybe the serpentine belt is gone, no coolant flow, no alternator, over heated.
-- Len 12NJ Krumsville, Pa
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An actual 1/4 rotation would sound like "nothing" to the uninitiated. Open the hood and watch for movement while somebody else is cranking. If truly not moving, and the lights go out with the key in "start" position, then this may be a seized engine. There is still the possibility that your chassis battery has been depleted after so many failed attempts.
If you don't have a digital voltmeter (DVM), buy one to keep with you. You don't need the most expensive, but don't buy the cheapest. Hopefully you can get one with alligator clips. If no clips, just hold one probe to each battery terminal, the polarity really does not make a difference. Be sure it is in "DC Volts" mode and 20V scale if no auto-ranging feature. It should show about 12.6 V. Have somebody crank the engine and note the voltage while cranking while the key is in "start", and display may drop to about 10 V while cranking. I might also suggest the old school method of using jumper cables and another vehicle to start. Otherwise, I have not seen here that you addressed the possible fuel outage issue. Did you ever add more fuel? If you did run out of fuel, you will need to prime the engine's injectors, etc. Call a mechanic if unfamiliar with the process. I really like David's "limp home mode" using a battery charger, but you need to get the engine started first! Will keep it in mind. I have a Trik-l-start that I removed in case you are interested, once your main problem is fixed. -- Dunc, N.CO, 2018 N24D 800W Solar, 10kWh Tesla Coach Gyrocopter Toad
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