Roof edge caulking
|
Lee Haefele
The roof is tucked behind the aluminum boltrope rail that holds the awning. On one side of the fiberglass roof, the caulking is cleanly detached from the aluminum. Does anyone know what this caulk is? I need to know if the next caulk I use will adhere.
Lee Haefele 10 VK Ithaca, NY
|
|
|
|
William Finley
Hello Here is a good video on sealing this edge a little long but lots of good information on this edge. There are two different sealants used depends on full body paint yes or no.
Manus-Bond for those without full body paint. Bill 06vh Man
On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 8:16 AM Lee Haefele <Lee@...> wrote: The roof is tucked behind the aluminum boltrope rail that holds the awning. On one side of the fiberglass roof, the caulking is cleanly detached from the aluminum. Does anyone know what this caulk is? I need to know if the next caulk I use will adhere.
|
|
|
|
Paul Rouis
Lee,
Pretty sure it is Nuflex 311. That is what I used to redo mine after peeling out most of the original bead.
Paul 07VJNY
From: discussion@view-naviontech.groups.io <discussion@view-naviontech.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Lee Haefele
Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2020 8:16 AM To: discussion@view-naviontech.groups.io Subject: [view-naviontech] Roof edge caulking
The roof is tucked behind the aluminum boltrope rail that holds the awning. On one side of the fiberglass roof, the caulking is cleanly detached from the aluminum. Does anyone know what this caulk is? I need to know if the next caulk
I use will adhere.
|
|
|
|
William Finley
Paul/all The video link I shared was posted by Lichtsinn a very large winnebago dealer near the winnebago factory. They indicated manus bond for the edges and nuflex 311 for the other flat part of the roof. Not sure it makes a difference if the materials seals and sticks just trying to make sure folks know two different sealants are suggested by the manufacturer. Don't use dicor self-leveling caulk it doesn't stick well to the silicone originally used. Bill06vh
On Wed, Sep 9, 2020, 9:41 AM Paul Rouis <prouis@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Paul Rouis
Thanks for the clarification Bill. I asked a dealer and was told to use the 311 but I think they were mistaken. Should have called Lichtsinn instead! It worked OK but I had to tape everything and install it very carefully since it is more of a “self-leveling” type. A “gun grade” would be easier to use for sure.
Paul 07VJNY
From: discussion@view-naviontech.groups.io <discussion@view-naviontech.groups.io>
On Behalf Of William Finley
Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2020 10:07 AM To: discussion@view-naviontech.groups.io Subject: Re: [view-naviontech] Roof edge caulking
Paul/all
The video link I shared was posted by Lichtsinn a very large winnebago dealer near the winnebago factory.
They indicated manus bond for the edges and nuflex 311 for the other flat part of the roof.
Not sure it makes a difference if the materials seals and sticks just trying to make sure folks know two different sealants are suggested by the manufacturer.
Don't use dicor self-leveling caulk it doesn't stick well to the silicone originally used.
Bill06vh
On Wed, Sep 9, 2020, 9:41 AM Paul Rouis <prouis@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
David J
The sealant specifications are in http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/pdfs/2006_Callout_Sheets.pdf
Manus Bond for the roof rail, Nuflex 311 for most of the self-leveling stuff on top. 311 is a silicone adhesive and sticks really well, but nothing sticks to it. The problem with using it in the roof rail is that it takes a very long time to scrape it off the *next* time you need to renew it. It took me about 6 hours to remove all the old sealant and replace with Manus Bond, it's apparently double that if the old sealant is silicone.
|
|
|
|
Lee, et al - The ‘ ap joint' between the fiberglass roof material and the aluminum awning rail is not very large, hence it only allows a tiny amount of sealant to be inserted in the limited space. I have attached [I hope] a PDF illustrating a simple alternative approach. My concept involves: 1/ remove all old sealant 2/ clean up the space 3/ carefully insert a tiny rubber spline [to a uniform depth] in the space while continuing contact with the fiberglass. 4/ fill the space above spline using your preferred sealant. Take a look and see what you think… Bill V12J MI The roof is tucked behind the aluminum boltrope rail that holds the awning. On one side of the fiberglass roof, the caulking is cleanly detached from the aluminum. Does anyone know what this caulk is? I need to know if the next caulk I use will adhere. / Lee Haefele / 10 VK Ithaca, NY
|
|
|
|
David J
It seems to me that the lap joint is principally for adhesion, to keep the fiberglass roof material attached to the rail. Sealing against moisture isn't the primary objective. A thin layer of adhesive is almost always stronger than a thick one. The primary issue according to the techs I talked with is to get all the old sealant off the aluminum and fiberglass surfaces so the new material can adhere to it.
|
|
|
|
James Selm
FWIW, I have had factory caulk "split" separating in the middle while still adhered on each side along my roof line gutters. I used "White Lighting 303" product with good success. I've used this product on many repair issues well beyond and before the View with very good results. I've recently saw it, in limited color options on the shelf at Home Depot, however in Menard's country they stock a wide variety of colors. jim 07vh floh
On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 8:16 AM Lee Haefele <Lee@...> wrote: The roof is tucked behind the aluminum boltrope rail that holds the awning. On one side of the fiberglass roof, the caulking is cleanly detached from the aluminum. Does anyone know what this caulk is? I need to know if the next caulk I use will adhere.
|
|
|